As anyone who regularly reads this blog may know, I’ve got two designers I’m currently obsessed with: one is the formidable Alexander McQueen, the other is the young Erdem Moralioglu. So, although day 4 of LFW was only a short one, Erdem deserves his very own epic post. I apologise if this comes across as somewhat of a cheesy, rambling loveletter.
I’ve been particularly smitten with the young Canadian since attending his hauntingly beautiful AW09 show, held under the arches of Somerset House right before it became the official home of London Fashion Week. In my opinion he’s the designer who always manages to cut the perfect dress, full of volume and colour. He simply knows how to make a ‘normal’ girl stand out in the vast sea of Little Black Dresses. There’s a reason why Michelle Obama, Sarah Brown and Samantha Cameron all have him on speeddial. One of the gorgeous pieces from that AW09 collection recently became mine in the sales – I feel quite lucky to own a part of what I 100% believe will become a classic label for many years to come. Ignore the stupid face and grainy picture – but isn’t it nice to see a dress go from the catwalk to a shorty like myself, and still look great? That’s just good design if you ask me.
Anyway, I’m not here to write about my fabulous new dress (or am I?). Erdem AW10 was obviously the show I’d been looking forward to all week long. The beautiful Art Deco Senate House in Bloomsbury provided an eery, history-heavy background for what would be the most beautiful show I’ve ever had the good fortune of witnessing.
The models came down two sets of marble stairs and an extremely long catwalk with twists and turns, accompanied by classical soundtrack. (Michael Nyman – MGV 1st Region, in case you were wondering…) If that wasn’t enough to give me goosebumps, then there were the clothes…
Inspired by images his twin sister would send him about natural history (she is a documentary maker), the cheerful colours of last season evolved into a more sombre, autumnal palette, full of wildlife references in the prints. His style also seems to have evolved into something more mature – sure, there were still plenty of his usual flirty little dresses (the yellow puffy shoulder one will become mine!), but there were other pieces which proved he is not just a one-trick-pony. A beautiful shearling overcoat, leather skirts, lace dresses and Oscar-worthy evening gowns were enough to cement his name as a “fashion great”, no longer a “one to watch”.
During the epic finale, many shed a tear, as the models swept down the great marble staircase again. This was a great “fashion moment”, which happen only once every so often. If there’s one negative about this whole event, is that it’s clear that London will soon become too small for Mr. Moralioglu. Paris seems the obvious next move, and London Fashion Week will be so much worse for it.
Images my own or via www.londonfashionweek.co.uk