Due to the fact that I get most of my freelance work in womenswear, men’s fashion has always played a bit of a secondary role in my research, which is why I don’t blog about menswear very often. It sometimes saddens me, because I’m actually a closeted menswear freak.
But now that more and more fashion houses are opening their catwalk shows to the world by streaming them live online, I’ve started watching again, and well – I’m back in the menswear game. Along with the people spotting pre-show, you get the best seat in the house, all in your pj’s and without a scrap of makeup – it’s genius, really. This is the first time I’ve reviewed men’s shows in… well… forever, so be nice.
Burberry’s parade of military coats had me flushed from start to finish. Christoper Bailey has been on an unstoppable high for a while now, that much is certain. From the nautical coats, the aviator jackets, shearling coats and of course the reinvention of the Burberry mac, all with an added rock ‘n roll twist, it screamed Bailey through and through. If I had to call one real trend here though, it would be the fur-lined boots. Boys, prepare to tuck in your skinny jeans in some army boots next season, because Mr. Bailey said so.
Moncler Gamme Bleu by Thom Browne
Leave it to Thom Browne to make ski gear looking sexy. In once again a theatrical spectacle, the models were laid eerily still in barracks-style cots whilst the crowd got to their seats, wearing nothing but grey thermal underwear and pom-pom hat. A commander gathered his troops, who swiftly got dressed in their many, many layers of Moncler parkas, trousers, shorts, snowboots, hats, jackets, sweaters, etc, until approved for inspection and catwalk. The show had both all the Moncler functionality and whimsical design aesthetics you’d expect of a Thom Browne collection. Two thumbs up.
Set against a floor-and-wall skulls and bones backdrop, McQueen’s AW10 presentation was probably never going to be one of pure simplicity. Over the past few seasons the Englishman has really started to emerge as a master of digital prints. This season it was no different, as they were all over, from head to toe, (quite literally – baklava to shoes). The prints ranged from human skulls, paint splatters, reptile skins and other, more undefinable matters. The cuts were as sleek and sharp tailored as the pageboy’s haircuts the models were sporting. This was very much McQueen on top form, unwilling to settle for anything less than his artistic vision, not commercial but editorially very pleasing.
Prada’s catwalk was a big, messy affair (in fact, part of the front row collapsed minutes before the start, seen on the live stream), which really resonated throughout the whole show. With video screens all around the venue walls, pictures on the floor, a zig-zagging catwalk, rave music and both AW10 men’s and pre-fall Women’s being presented at the same time, the whole thing was just terribly confusing. At the end of it, I felt so drained, I could barely remember the clothes. There was a distinct retro-Prada feel to the whole collection, but lacking some of its usual spark. At the end of the show, “TO BE CONTINUED” were the final words screened on the walls. Let’s hope Mrs. Prada steps her game up a bit in a few weeks for the women’s show.